三郎とおやすみ羊のBMW R1200GSで世界一周の大冒険
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Day 239: 2011年3月20日
Medellin (Hostal Medellin)
30,185km
いつも応援してくださっている方々には大変申し訳ございませんが、残念ながらクライディーとは破局しました。こちらに来るに当たっていろいろ話していたのですが、あまり協力しようという気配が見れないので最近毎日真剣に話をしようと試みたのですが、いつもチャラ化すばかりなので遂にキレてしまいました。人が真剣に話をしてるのにチャラ化すのは、ワシは、許せません。元々旅人ではないので仕方ないのかもしれませんが、旅をなめていましたね、彼女は。ワシにもっと包容力があればよかったのですが、まだまだ人間がそこまで出来てません。反省です。
彼女は24日にボゴタへ行き、25日の早朝の飛行機でメキシコに帰ることになりました。せっかくここまで来たのに本当に残念です。
という訳で、またヒツジとの旅になりました。これからも皆さんよろしくお願いいたします!
Day 239: 20 Mar 2011
Medellin (Hostal Medellin)
30,185km
I rergret to announce that I broke up with Claydy. We agreed to coperate each other before I went to pick her up in Mexico,but in my opinion, she was not really willing to coperate with me. She has been very childish and selfish all the way since she has come to Medellin. Recent few days, I tried to talk to her seriously and get more understanding what she was upto, but everytime she was just joking around. I could not take her attitude... When a person is talking seriously, joking or making fun of it is not an acceptable behaviour, I reckon.
I wish I could accept her as she is still young and new to travelling and foregin country. But I have not developed my mentality so generously as yet.... I also regret this point....
So she will go to Bogota on 24th of March and wil catch a plain on the early morning of 25th. I really really regret that I could not get her understanding and I could not make her happy here.
So I continue my trip with Mr. Sheep. I appreciate your continuing support!
Day 238: 2011年3月19日
Medellin (Hostal Medellin)
30,172km to 30,185km = 13km
今日は朝Ruta40にGSwo受取に行きました。Google Mapで見るとメトロIndustorias駅の近くなのでメトロで行って歩きました。流石に今日は土曜日なので他のお客さんも来ています。コロンビアは関税が高いのでBMWのバイクを乗れる人は本当に富裕層に限られると思いますが、やはりいるもんなんですねぇ。
オイル、オイル・フィルターの交換、コンピュータのチェックなどで約COP300,000(約165米ドルです)。「ステッカーは無いの?」って訊いたら、Ruta40とコロンビアの国旗のステッカーをタダでもらいました。ありがとう!
宿まで戻り買い物行くの待ちますが、今日はNoahが忙しいらしいのでまた明日ということで。井戸さんとビリヤードに勤しみました。井戸さんどんどん上達してるなぁ。勝ったり負けたり。クライディーも途中参加して3人でゲーム。誰が一番ボールを落すかというルール。もう滅茶苦茶ですがワシが2回とも征しました。
スーパーマーケットExitoにて買出し。24日のキューバ行きまでの食料は確保できましたな。夜はクライディーがスペイン語で映画を見始めたのでやることないのでバイクで夜の街を走りましたが、雷がピカピカしてきたので宿に引き返しました。
最近クライディーと旅を続ける自信が持てないのでメキシコに戻ってもらうかどうか考え中です。やっぱり旅はヒツジとのほうがイイわぁ。
Day 238: 19 Mar 2011
Medellin (Hostal Medellin)
30,172km to 30,185km = 13km
I picked up my GS at Ruta40. Checked on Google Map, it is located near Metro Industias station, so I took Metro there.
The service cost me COP300,000 (About US$165). They changed Engine oil, oil filter, checked the computer etc. I asked if they have a sticker of Ruta40, and they gave me some stickers of Ruta 40 and Colobian flag for free. Thanks so much!
Came back to Hostal Medellin, and we waited for Noah to go gor shopping but he was busy with something, so it was postponed to tomorrow. Then Yutaka and I played pool for a while again. He was getting beter and better. Sometimes he won and other times I won.
Later Claydy joined us and played with another rule. Who gets most balls in the pockets would be the winner. We palyed twice and I won twice!
In the afternoon, we went to Exito to get food stuff. I think we bought too much and would be enough till I go to Cuba.
In the evening, Claydy started to watch a movie with Noah and Scott, but did not ask me to watch together. So I went for a night ride. But while I was riding on the fringe of the mountains, I saw lightenings. I thought it was about to rain, so I returned (But it did not rain).
Now I don't have confidence to travel with Claydy, so I am seriously thinking to go solo or not....
Day 237: 2011年3月18日
Medellin (Hostal Medellin)
30,172km
今日は朝クライディーがなかなか起きてこないので朝飯を独りで食べて、自転車のメンテをしてる井戸さんの邪魔をしてからビリヤード。しばらくしてからクライディーが起きてきたので一緒にビリヤード。何回か勝ったり負けたりしたら「20,000ペソ(11ドルくらい)賭けよう」というので承諾。ちょっと本気を出してしっかり勝ちました。でもこの20,000ペソは元々ワシのなんだよなぁ。店でおつりもらうとき捕っちゃうんですよね、クライディー。
昼過ぎにメトロに乗って植物公園(Jardin Botonico)へ。タダで中には入れるんですけど、そんなに大したことありませんね。クライディーがちょっと建物の中に入ってる時に外で待ってたんですが、遠足で来てる中学生たちに掴まりました。「どっから来たノー!?」と聞いてくるので英語で返したらもう大喜び。いろいろ質問攻めです。やはりアジア人は珍しいのだろうか?
クライディーが出てきましたがワシが20人くらいの中学生たちに囲まれてるのでさぞかしビックリしたでしょう。中学生たちはクライディーがメキシコ人なのにも大はしゃぎ。写真を撮ってくれとみんなで代わる代わる撮ります。何人かはデジカメ持ってるんですよ。それにはビックリ。コロンビアは中米諸国よりも豊かだなぁって感じますね。
しばらく歩いた後遅めの昼食。公園内のレストランなのでちょっと高目ですが。さっきの20,000ペソがすっ飛びました。
宿に戻りまたビリヤード。今度はクライディーが殆ど手持ち無いので2,000ペソを賭けました。しかしワシが3連勝。6,000ペソの勝ちです。これでクライディーすっからかん。可哀想。
明日はバイクを取りに行った後宿の仲間たちとメルカドに行って買い物、そしてみんなで料理をします。さて何が出来るでしょうか??
Day 237: 18 Mar 2011
Medellin (Hostal Medellin)
30,172km
As Clayding was sleeping in today (as usual), I had breakfast alone and I bothered Yutaka doing maintenance on his bicycle. Sorry buddy, I was bored.... After that I was playing pool alone for a while. Then Claydy came down and joined me to play pool. We had a few games before she suggested to bet COP20,000. I guess she thought she could win easily as I was not doing very good. But with little more concentration, she was defeated!! I won COP20,000. But this COP20,000 was mine anyway.
We took Metro to Jardin Botanico (Botanical Garden) in the afternoon. The entrance was free. While Claydy was checking out butterflies inside a cage, I was waiting outside. Then school kids (low teen) sorrounded me. Around 20 of them!! They said "Hello!", so I answered in English and they were so excited! They started questioning me in mixture of Spanish and English. Where I was from, what I was doing here etc etc... I guessed they did not see much Asian here, so for them I was special. Some of them asked me if they could take a photo with me. What surprising was many of them had digital cameras. I did not see that in Central America. Not even in Mexico. I reckoned Colombia is much wealthier than other Latin American countries I had been through.
Then Claydy came out. She was surprised to see me sorrounded by bounch of kids! They were ver amazed to know that Claydy is Mexicana and they asked her those Mexican Spanish words and terms. They took photos of us and I took a photo of them. I had a good time wit you guys, kids!
After walked around the garden for a while, we had late lunch at the restaurant on the garden. It was a bit expensive and the COP20,000 this mornig was gone....
We went back to the hostel and played pool again. Thistime we bet COP2,000. I won 3 times and make COP6,000. Now she was broke...
Tomorrow I will pick up my GS at Ruta40 and then we will go to a mercado with Noah and Scott.
Day 236: 2011年3月17日
Medellin (Hostal Medellin)
30,165km to 30,172km = 8km
今日はバイクをサービスに出しにBMWディーラーRuta40に行きました。ここはHorizon Unlimitedでも評判のディーラーでBMWのバイクで旅をしているライダーの多くがここでサービスや点検をして南下するらしいです。
GPSに座標をセットしていざRuta40へ。店構えは小さいですが、さすがはBMWディーラー小奇麗ですしコーヒーのサービスまであります。最初スペイン語で説明してたのですが、店の人が英語しゃべれたので英語で説明。土曜日の朝には仕上がるとのこと。トップケースも直してもらうことに。大体180ドルくらいだと言ってました(これは違う店員に聞いてスペイン語での返答だったので違うかも・・・)。問題はタイヤ。エクアドル、ペルー、ボリビアではGSのサイズのタイヤは手に入らないとのこと。今のタイヤでチリまで問題なく走れますが、ボリビアの宝石の道を走るのにはちょっとメッテッェラーツーランスは向いてないとのこと。さてどうしようかな??
とりあえずはタイヤはそのままということで、サービスだけを依頼。クライディーはワシの予備のグローブを今使ってるのでクライディーのサイズに合うグローブを80,000ペソで購入。大体42ドルくらいです。
タクシーで宿まで戻り(6,000ペソ)、昼飯を作って食べてDVD「The Blind Side」を観賞。サンドラ・ブルック主演の実話に基づいた話でイイ映画でした。しかしサンドラは相変わらずマイケル・ジャクソンに似ていてそれが気になってしょうがないです・・・。
夜は井戸さんとビリヤード。井戸さん殆ど初めてなのにワシより上手いです・・・。というかワシ下手すぎです・・・。明日は植物公園に行ってきます!
Day 236: 17 Mar 2011
Medellin (Hostal Medellin)
30,165km to 30,172= 8km
This morning I brought my GS to BMW Dealer Ruta 40. Brian told me that Ruta 40has lots of credits on Horizon Unlimited Hubb and I heard lots of good things from other riders as well.
I took Claydy there, but she didn't really want to go there. She said "It's a place of men". I replied "Yes it is, Honey. But we are travelling with a motorcycle, and I want you to know more about motorcyclising!" So I kinda forced her to go with me.
Well, as soon as we got there, staff came to me and started a conversation in Spanish. I wanted Claydy to get involved but she went miles away...
I was trying to explain in Spanish but I could not really understand what the recepcionist of Service department was saying. I understand either I should bring the bike on "Saturday" or it will be done by "Saturday". I looked at Claydy and asked her a help. But another staff asked me if I speak English. And we started to talk in English. So Claydy did not join our conversation.
It will be ready by Saturday morning and the estimate cost was around US$180. The concern was a choice of tyre if we are going to Bolivia. The current set "Metzeler Tourance" have enough tread till Chile, but it would not be very good in the dirt. Continental TKC80 or Metzeler Karoo are the choices for dirt but it would be hard to carry Tourance as the spare, as now we are riding tandem...
I decided to leave the tyre issue and think about it till Saturday.
Claydy was using my spare gloves and they were too big for her. There was a pair of gloves at the shop so we bought that (COP80,000. Around US$42).
As she guessed, she did not have agood time at Ruta 40.... I felt sorry to let her go there with me, but at the same time I wanted her to try a bit harder to enjoy motorcycling culture....
We took a cab back to Hostal Medellin (COP6,000). Then cokked lunch and watched DVD "The Blind Side" starring Sandra Bullock. It's based on the true story and we enjoyed it.
In the evening, Yutaka and I played pool for a while. We played 5 games and he beat me by 3-2... He had almost never played pool before but was better than me.... What a shit player I am....
Tomorrow we will go to Jardin Botanica.
Day 235: 2011年3月16日
Medellin - Guatape - Medellin (Hostal Medellin)
29,991km to 30,165km = 174km
今日はグアタペにバイクで行ってきました。メデジンに来てから初バイクです。パニアを外して軽快に走れるようにしました。クライディーも久しぶりにバイクに乗るのでちょっと緊張気味。
グアタペはメデジンの東1-2時間のところにある街。世界で3番だか4番目にでかい岩と水でに囲まれた風景が美しい名所。オスタル・メデジンにもポスターが貼ってあって前からクライディーがこっちに来たら一緒に行こうと思ってたんです(まぁ、ダニエルと一緒に行く計画もありましたが)。
10時ごろ宿を出てアウトピスタ(高速道路)に向かおうとしましたが、道を間違えてしばらく迷ってしまいました。何回か道を訊ねて、最後はタクシーが親切に教えてくれてようやくアウトピスタへ!30分以上無駄にしました。
アウトピスタに乗ってしまえばあとは走るだけ。山の中なので結構カーブが多いので楽しいです。2車線あるので追い越しも楽ですのでストレス無し!
「グアタペ」という標識はなかなか出てこないんです。ずーっとボゴタ(Bogota)方面に向かえと聞いていたのでその通りにしましたが、結構走ってるのに「グアタペ」が出ないのでアウトピスタが1車線になったところで地元の人に聞いてみました。そしたら「グアタペへはちっと先で左だよ」とのこと。ほんとうにちょっといったら(200メートルくらい)「グアタペ」の標識があって左折と書いてあります。
左折してから更に32km。結構カーブ連続の山道。もうあと10km足らずでグアタペというところで小さな街に入ったので徐行してると、クライディーが「怖いから帰りはバスで帰りたい・・・」と泣き言を・・・。カーブ連続が怖かったそうです。うーん、そんなに速く走ってないんだけどな。でもまだ慣れてないから仕方ないか。ゆっくり走りましょう。
そこからしばらく走ると巨大岩が見えてきました。なかなかの風景です。
ようやくグアタペに到着。メデジンから90キロくらいですか。先ずは岩の麓へ。ここまでバイクで行けます。駐車料はバイクの場合1000ペソ。ここから湖?川?を見下ろす風景もまたいいです。
丁度お昼時ですのでレストランで昼飯。観光地なので高いのは覚悟してたんですけど、やっぱり高かった・・・。クライディーはステーキ、ワシはコロンビア料理。でもボリューム満点で美味い。たまには贅沢も必要です。
腹ごしらえが済んだら岩を登り始めます。地上200メートル。頂上まで階段がありますがもともとグアタペの標高が高いのでなかなかキツイです。そうそう入り口で1人8000ペソの入場料払います。高い・・・。
クライディーは若いくせに直ぐに「疲れたぁ」なんて泣き言を言ってます。流石に肺にはキツイですが600段くらいなのでそんなにハードな登りじゃないよクライディー。
岩の天辺にさらに展望台がありそこから更に上へ。あー、いい見晴らしですね。でもこの周りが水で囲まれた地形はどうやら人造湖みたいです。山の谷あいにダムで水を堰き止めたっていう感じです。ヒツジはこれはダムだと断言してます。
しばらく景色を眺めたらイタリア人と日本人のコンビが登ってきました。ジョルジョとシンスケ君。中米でであって一緒に旅をしてるそうです。話をしてたらコロンビア人のカップルが登ってきました。ボゴタから観光で来てるそうで旦那さんのルイス(Luis)は弁護士(Aogado)でなにか困ったら連絡してと名刺をもらいました。面白いオッサンで色々冗談をいって我々をワラかします。「これからどこに行くんだ?」と聞くので「とりあえず来週独りでキューバに行くからクライディーはメデジンでお留守番」と言ったら、「メデジンはプレイボーイが多いから危険だ。ボゴタの家に来なさい」と。奥さんも「寝てる間は旦那をベッドに括り付けておくから安全よ!」なんてジョークを言ってます。クライディーも乗り気ですし、キューバから帰って来たらクライディーをボゴタに迎えに行ってボゴタに2-3泊ってのも悪くないな。
帰りはまぁ、流す程度に走って5時半頃に宿に着きました。明日はバイク屋Ruta40にバイクをサービスに出します。
Day 235: 16 Mar 2011
Medellin - Guatape - Medellin (Hostal Medellin)
29,991km to 30,165km = 174km
I always wanted to go to Guatape since I saw a poster on the wall of Hostal Medellin. When Daniel was still here, we made a plan to visit there. But he decided to go ahead to Quito quickly, so I wanted to go when Claydy got here.
I took off panniers from my GS for easier riding. It's been shince the ride from San Cristobal to Paredon (the end of January) we rode together, so Claydy seemed to be a bit nurvous.
Guatape is located east of Medellin and it would take 1hr and half to 2hrs. I thought it would be easy to get to Autopista (Freeway) but I took a wrong turn and we got lost for a while in the city. We asked a few times and finally a cab driver lead us to the entrance of Autopista. How kind of him! Muchas gracias!!
Once we were on Autopista, it was easy. We just need to follow "Bogota" sign. There were 2 lanes and it was somooth overtaking slow vehiecles.There were lots of curves and I enjoyed riding through them. But as Claydy was onboard, I reserved speed for safety.
We came quite far but we still had not seen the sigh "Guatape". We came to a small town and the Autopista became single lane. So we asked the local how far uapatpe would be. She said if we went a little further, we would se the sign "Guatape" and turn left. And she was right. We saw the sign 300m ahead (over the hill) and we took a left turn. There were another 32km to Guatape.
Lots of curves, I liked them. But Claydy later told me that she was scared.... and she wanted to catch a bus when going back to Medellin.... I am sorry honey, I will slow down a bit.
We saw the giant rock far away. It's quite a view. As we got closer, we saw the beautiful landscape of Guatape. We can get to the bottom of the rock by motorcycle and there is parking spots (COP1,000). As it was lunch time, we had lunch at a restaurant. Yes, there is the touristic place and it came with the touristic price. But the meals were good and we enjoyed our lunch seeing nice view.
Now we gotta climb up the gigantic rock. 200m above the ground. I heard it is 3rd or 4th biggest rock in the world. The biggest (Mt Augustus in Western Australia) and 2nd (Uluru - Ayers Rock) are located in Australia. I am not sure what would be 3rd. El Capitan of Yosemite? Maybe.
We had to pay COP8,000 each at the entrance. Wow, that's expensive! We can climb up the stairs all theway to the top. Some 600 or more steps. The climb was not that tough but as Guatape is at high altitude, it was hard for our lungs.
The view from the top was magnificent! We wondered if those water was river or lake. We guessed it would be a man made lake for generating electricity, and later we fond it right.
Here we met Giorgio of Italy, Shinsuke of Japan and Colombian couple Luis and his wife. Giorgio and Shinsuke are travelling together since Central America. Luis and his wife are from Bogota on vacation. Luis is a funny guy and is a lowyer. He gave us his business card and told us if we encounter with any problem, give him a call. He asked us "What is your plan next?" and I said "I am flying to Cuba alone and Claydy will be waiting for me in Medellin.". He said "That's no good. There are lots og playboys in Medellin. Why doesn't her to come to Bogota and stay with us?" Wow that's a nice offer. His wife also said "I will strap him on the bed while she is sleeping, so it is very safe!!" Hahahaha, they are really nice people. Claydy also thinks it is a good idea, and I think the same too. And we can get to know locals and Bogota. This is the trip, right!?
We left there around 4:30pm and got back to the hostel before 6pm. Tomorrow I will take my GS to the BMW dealer Ruta 40 for 30,00km service.