Day 448: 2011年10月16日

Pisiga (Bolivia) to somewhere between Iquique and Santiago (Chile)
41,131km

朝は7時前に起きて、皆で国境沿いまで歩きます。本線ではなくちょっと脇道へ。
国境線の近くにバンが何台か停っていて、ディエゴたちが交渉。イキケまで10,000チリペソで、と。20米ドル! 高い!!と思いましたが、ボリビア人は皆その値段で納得。

考えてみれば昨日バスが故障した時も、皆返金の要求なんかしてなかったし、ボリビア人結構お金に対してタンパク、なのか?

まぁ、高いけど、とにかくイキケまで行かないことには仕方がないので皆とバンに乗り込みます。心配なのは国境超え、と思ったのもつかの間、そのままダート道を走りあっさりとチリ側へ。ゲートも何もありません。これでワシのボリビア1夜不法滞在は無かったことに。しかし、いくらなんでもこれでは国境、甘過ぎるでしょ。

ダートをしばらく走り本線へ。ここで昨日のバスで一緒だったオジさんが合流し、再びダートへ。小川があるのですが、凍り付いてます。バスで一晩過ごしたら、死んでたな。



しばらく走ると、ありました、バス。流石に誰もバスで一晩過ごさなかったようです。

イキケまでは4時間くらい。途中の景色はなかなかです。

イキケは砂漠が海に迫っている所に出来た街。けっこうな都市です。パラグライダーをやっている人も多く、チリは流石にお金を持ってます。走っている車も新車が多いし。

街中でディエゴたちが下車。大変だったけど楽しかったよ。バスターミナルに着いたのは12時過ぎ。チリはボリビアより1時間進んでいるんですね。

丁度1時出発のサンティアゴ行きのバスがあったのでチケット購入。20,000チリペソ(40米ドル)。セミカマです。ボリビアの物価からすると高いですね。

驚いたことに、飯付!! なかなかいいじゃないか、チリ。DVDで映画鑑賞。スペイン語ですが時間が潰せます。

途中ミランダという所のバスターミナルで一時休憩しましたが、バスターミナルは近代的でしたね。チリ、先進国ですね。

夕飯も付いて、バスはなかなか快適です。ちょっと足が伸ばせないのはきついですが、ね。


Day 448: 16 OCT 2011

Pisiga (Bolivia) to somewhere between Iquique and Santiago (Chile)
41,131km

We all woke up before 7am and walked to the border. We went to the side of the boder and found a few collectivos. Diego and others started to negotiate the price to Iquique. The driver told us 10,000CLP (Chilean Peso) each. Which was about US$20! Very expensive, I thought. But all Bolivianos agreed with the price. So I hopped on to a collectivos too.

I reckoned that Bolivianos were poor, but yesterday when the bus broke down, none was argueing for the refund or compensation. They might be very easy with money?? Or they just do not like argueing??

I worried about the border crossing as when I came back to the Bolivian side, I did not go through the immigration process. But it was no use worrying about it. The collectivo was going on the dirt track and crossed the border. There was no gate nor fence to divide the 2 countries. I was very surprised.

We stayed on the dirt for a while and the collectivo went to the main paved road. Where we picked up a few more passengers. One of them was an ld guy from the same bus.

Then we had to detour to the dirt road again (as yesterday). There was a creek on the way and it was frozen... If we stayed on the bus a night, we could have frozen to death.

We passed the broken bus and none was onboard. Everyone seemed hitch hiked out of the desert.

The ride t Iquique was about 4 hours. The sceneries to Iquique were pretty good, deserts, multi-coloured mountains, valleys etc. 

We got to Iquique around 12noon. Chilean time zone is 1 hour ahead of Bolivia even though it is located the west of Bolivia.

The city of Iquique is located on the coast where desrts and mountains meat the Pacific Ocean. Very interesting view, indeed. There was a huge sand dune just next to the city and it looked like it could cover the city anytime. There were may parasailers. Many of cars on the streets were new. I could see Chile is much wealthier than Bolivia.

Diego and others got off the collectivo in the middle of the city. We said good-bye there. It was hard but very interesting day we spent together, amigos.

I got to the bus terminal and luckily I could buy a ticket for 1pm bus to Santiago for 20,000CLP. It was US$40, considerably more expensive than Bolivian bus prices.

But what surprised me was that it included meals! Also movies were played onboard, so I did not get board.

We stopped at Miranda bus terminal for a while. The terminal was very modern and clean. Chile is definitely a "developed" country.

As it was a semi-cama seat, I could not streatch my legs completely. But otherwise, it was a comfy ride. 

[3回]

Day 447: 2011年10月15日

Sucre to Oruro, Oruro to Pisiga
41,131km

スクレからオルロまでバスで9時間。9時半に出発し6時過ぎに到着。カマ(寝台)だったのでスペースは十分で快適でしたが、毛布がなかったので寒いこと寒いこと。

さて、オルロに到着しましたが、イキケへのバスは12時出発なので時間が有余ります。

待ち合い所で若者がジュークボックスで米のヒップポップをかけて楽しんでましたが、警察が来て補導されてました。何かやらかしたんか??

12時になってもバスが来ないので、他の乗客とチケット売り場に行くと、どうやらバスはキャンセルされたとのこと!しかも2つのバス会社が! 結局もう1つのバス会社に振替になり、満員状態で出発。1時前。

オルロをでて西に向かうともうダート。流石ボリビア。砂漠の中を走っていきます。
国境に到着したのは5時過ぎ。皆降りて入国審査と荷物の検査。皆無事に通過。この旅で15国目チリに入国。それにしても風が強い。

チリ側はキレイに舗装されています。流石は先進国、と思ったら直ぐにダート道に入りました(舗装炉は工事中のため)。しばらく走ると、バスが停車。どうやら故障した模様。ありゃりゃ。何とかエンジンがかかり、ダートを抜け本線へ。そこで修理を試みましたが、駄目みたいで、国境まで戻ることに。

しかし、戻る途中ダートで完全に故障。もう動けません。どうやら、代わりのバスも来ないらしく、皆で、"どうする?"と相談。日はもう暮れて、辺は真暗。バスで一晩過ごしたら凍死してしまいます。

隣のディエゴと斜め前のディエゴはヒッチハイクし国境まで戻り宿で一晩過ごすといいます。彼らに着いていくことに。その他女性が3人と男性が1人の計7人。

ユンボを運んでいるトラックが来たのでヒッチ。荷台に乗ったのでダートのガタガタは辛かった。尻が割れるかと思った位ケリ返しが凄かった。

ようやく舗装路に入りほっとしたら国境を越えてました! えっ、出入国審査してないよ。

しかしディエゴたちは、"問題ない"、と。彼らはボリビア人ですからねぇ。ボリビア人がボリビアに戻ってもお咎めは無いでしょうけど、ワシは外国人。明日の国境超が心配です。

宿は1人30ボリ。夕メシを食べてそのまま寝ました。

さて、明日は国境でイキケ行きのバスを探して、国境を越えなければ行けません。どうなることやら。


Day 447: 15 OCT 2011

Sucre to Oruro, Oruro to Pisiga
41,131km

From Sucre to Oruro, it took about 9 hours, left Sucre around 9:30pm and got to Oruro around 6am. It was a Cama (bed) seat, so the space was prentty. But because there was no blanket provided, it was really cold at night.

The bus to Iquique (Chile) was scheduled to leave at 12noon, so I had to kill the time there.

Those teenagers were playing hip-hop musics on a jukebox, but policemen came and arrested them! I did not know what they had done!!

I waited after 12 noon, but no bus came. With other passengers I went back to the ticket office, and found out the bus was cancelled... Not only the company I bought the ticket from, but another bus was cancelled.

But luckily there was another bus company still doing the route, so I could get the ticket for the bus. As 2 buses were cancelled, the bus was full. We left Oruro around 1pm.

As soon as we left Oruro to the west, the road became a dirt road. The bus went through middle of the desert. I could see trushes everywhere on the "road" side. A typical Bolivian view.

We got to the border around 5pm. Everyone got off the bus and went through Immigration and custom check. It was very proper border crossing. The facility was very modern and the staffs were friendly but very professional. Everyone went through the border without a problem. It was very windy and dusty though.

The road of Chilean side was beautifully paved. But soon we had to make a detour to a dirt road as a section was closed due to under construction.

In the middle of nowhere, the bus stopped. It seemed the bus had a problem. A few minutes late, the bus started and we made to the main road. But the bus stopped at the road side again. The driver and the staff tried to fix it, but they decided to go back to the border.

We went back to the dirt road and the bus stopped again. This time, the engine was completely dead. They were saying, there would not be any replacement bus coming...

With Diego next to me and Diego in front of me, we discussed what to do. If we stay for a night in the bus, we will freeze to death. They reconed it would be better to hitch hike a car to get back to the border town in Bolivian side and stay one night there.

It was already dark and very windy and dusty. Finally we caught a truck carrying a shavel car. There were 3 ladies and 4 guys including myself. 4 guys stayed on the carrier, so it was very, very uncomfortable to ride on the dirt. I thought my ass would be broken...

Finally we got to the paved road, then the truck went passed the border, without going through the immigration process! I was anxious but 2 Diegos said, "No problem!" Well, they were Bolivians, so it would not be uch problem for them coming back to Bolivia without a proper immigration process. But I was only foreginer, so I could be in trouble tomorrow, when we are crossing the border back to Chile.

We found an accomodation, 30Bs each person. We had dinner there and went to sleep after that.

Hopefully we can find a transport to Iquique tomorrow and can cross the border without any problem.

[3回]

Day 446: 2011年10月14日

Sucre (Hostal Pachamama)
41,131km

朝からウベは大忙し。朝飯を食べて荷物をバイクに積みます。再び旅を続けることが出来る彼は嬉しそうですね。ワシも彼のために嬉しいですが、それよりも羨ましいですね。







アルゼンチン北部での再会を誓い、ウベは去っていきました。Buen viaje mi hermano!! Que te vaya bien!!

さて、ワシは午後9時のバスなので、のんびりです。アンナが出発まで部屋を使っていいと言ってくれたので、のんびり。

昼前にMotoserviに行って、エスペランサにアラーム付きディスクロックを装着。これで防犯対策はバッチリです。Motoserviにはジャーマンシェパード番犬のロコもいますからね、安心です。

シャーンといなかっぺ市場に行き大きな袋を購入。チリに行っている間宿に荷物を預けるのでこの袋にジャケットやブーツなどを一纏めにします。

昼飯後BBCの「The life of Muhammad」を鑑賞。知られざる預言者の素顔に迫ります。

さて今は午後5時。「The life of Muhammad」の続きを見てからバス・ターミナルに向かいますかね。パソコンは持っていかないので、ブログのアップはしばらくお休みになります。申し訳ございません。次にアップしたときにイイ報告を皆様に出来ることを願っています。

予定では明日の朝にオルロ（Oruro)到着。12時のバスでチリのイキケ(Iquique)に向かいます。イキケ到着は恐らく午後9時過ぎ。イキケで1泊するかそのままサンティアゴまで夜行で行くか（25時間かかります）は状況によりますね。早くて日曜の夜か月曜日の朝にはサンティアゴ到着です。ショックが税関に引っかからずに届くことを願います。


Day 446: 14 OCT 2011

Sucre (Hostal Pachamama)
41,131km

Uwe was getting ready to leave from the morning. After breakfast, he loaded all the luggages on his Katie. He looked very happy to continue his journey on his Katie. I was happy for him but I was even more envy him.

He left here aroud 9am. He was heading to Uyuni, then going through Lagunas Route to Chile. We promised to catch up in Northern Chile and he took off. Buen viaje, mi hermano! Que te vaya bien!!

As Anna told me I could use the room until I leave in the evening, so I could take iteasy, no rush.

I went to Motoservi before lunch time and installed the alarm disk break lock to my GS for more sucurity. In Motoservi, there s a guard dog "Loco" the Germanshepard, so it is a very safe place to store my GS.

With Shan, I went to Mercado Campesino to get a big plastic bag. As I will leave my stuff in the hostel, I need to put my jackes, boots, and so on in one bag.

After lunch, I came back to the hostel and watched BBC program "The life of Muhammad". This program will unvail the unknown life of the Prophet.

Now it'S 5pm. I am catching 9pm bus, so after watching the series of "The life of Muhammad", I will walk to the bus terminal.

As I am not taking my laptop with me, I will update the blog when I came back to Sucre. Hopefully I can update a good news on my bog soon.

My scheule is: the bus will arrive Oruro omorrow morning. And I will catch another bus to Iquique, Chile around noon tomorrow. I will be in Iquique in the evening tomorrow. Then I will decide if I will stay one onight in Iquique or wil catch a bus to Santiago (25hrs ride). So I will be in Santiago as early as Sunday evening, or Monday morning. If the shock absorber will not stuck in custom, I should be able to get it on Monday or Tuesday. WIsh me luck!!

[4回]

Day 445: 2011年10月13日

Sucre (Hostal Pachamama)
41,131km

今朝ノーマンを見送り、チリのカルロスから連絡が無いかチェック。しかしメールは無し。電話ボックスから「Moturing Chile」に電話。しかしカルロスはまだ出勤してないと。予定では昨日水曜日にドイツからショックは発送されているのですが、どうなっているのか不安が募ります。

ウベと一緒にMotoserviへ。ハイメさんは丁度出かけたばかりなので、いなかっぺ市場に行ってウベの予備ガソリン用ポリタンク10リットルを15ボリで購入。

Motoserviに戻りハイメさんと歓談。恐らく明日の夜にチリに向けて出発する旨を伝えました。

宿に戻りメールをチェックするもまだカルロスから連絡はありません。また電話ボックスに行って電話。ようやくカルロスにつながりました。「昨日ドイツから発送されたけど、いつ届くかはまだ未定。通常来週の月曜日か火曜日には届くけど、税関で引っかかる場合もあるから、届いてから動いたほうがいいのでは?」と、カルロス。しかし、既に発送されているので、いずれ届くのには違い有りません。ここで待っていても仕方が無いので、チリに行くことに決定。もし税関で引っかかって何日もかかるようでしたら、ビーニャ・デル・マルの「汐見荘」でのんびりしてもいいですしね。昼飯はメルカドで。

宿に戻りBBCの「Wonders of the Universe」を。今日学んだことは宇宙全体は地球と同じ92種類の原子で構成されていること（ウラニウムまでの原子。それよりも重い原子も存在しますが、基本的には人為的に作りだした超ウラン元素なので、番組では92種と説明してました。）。恒星は水素原子(H)を核融合させてヘリウム(He)を作り出していますが、それ以上重い原子は核融合の熱では作り出せないのです。

では我々を構成している原子はどのように作られたかというと、恒星が全ての水素を燃やしつくしたとき自身の重力で押しつぶされます（核融合で外への力が働いていましたが、それが無くなった為、自身の重力とのバランスが崩れます）。そのときの熱は核融合で作り出される熱よりも高温でその熱によりヘリウム原子核が融合し、炭素(C)が形成されます。

3 ⁴He → C

更に熱が高くなり鉄（Fe)までの原子(26種類）が作り出されます。最終的には大爆発を起こして、造られた原子は外に散らばります。

しかし鉄より重い残り66種の原子はどのように作り出されるのでしょうか?　それは太陽より7倍以上の質量を持つ恒星が上記の状態までになり、そして最終的に大爆発を起こします。このときの爆発で原子同士がぶつかり合い、更に高温が作られます。このときに金、銀、銅、ウラニウムなどの鉄より重い元素が作られるのです。これを超新星（Supernova)爆発といいます。大爆発後に残されたかつての巨大恒星は中性子が圧縮されて出来た中性子星になります。中性子星が自身の重力を支えられないとブラックホールになります。

⁵⁶Fe → 13 ⁴He + 4n - 124MeV

なので、我々を構成する原子は恒星の「死」により出来たものなのです。と、いうことは「我々はかつて恒星だった」ということになります。面白いすね!!　この沈没中にちょっと賢くなりました。

夕方バス・ターミナルに行きオルロ行きのチケットを80ボリで購入。Bus Cama（寝台バス）です。

夕飯はウベと「Shanghai」で。宿の精算をしましたが、女将のアンナは割引をしてくれました。ありがとう。
明日は9時のバスなので夕方まで部屋を使っていいと!!　いい宿です。


Day 445: 13 OCT 2011

Sucre (Hostal Pachamama)
41,131km

This morning, Norman left to Potosi. I checked e-mails but there was no reply from Carlos of Motouring Chile. So I called him from the phone booth, but he was not in yet... I just wanted to make sure if the shock absorber was shipped out from Germany as scheduled, so that I can plan my trip to Chile. Very frustrating situation indeed.

Uwe and I went to "Motoservi". Jaime was not in, so we went to buy a jerrycan for Uwe in Mercado Campesino. We found 10ltr one for 15Bs.

Back to Motoservi, I told Jaime, I might leave to Chile tomorrow evening.

I did not receive any update from Carlos when I came back to the hostel from Motoservi. So I went to the phone booth again to make a phone call. Finally I got to Carlos and he said the shock was already shipped out from Germany. But he was not sure when it would be at his workshop, so he recommended me to wait here until the shock arrives at his workshop as it is possible the shock might stuck in custom.

But anyway, it is on the way, I can wait in Chile. I am bored here in SUcre anyway, so it is a good idea to get to Chile and chill out there. There is a nice Japanese hostel in Vina del Mar near Santiago, so if I have to wait for a few days for custom clearance, I can stay there.

Back to the hostel, I watched BBC "Wonders of the Universe". What I leant from the program was all the elements of the universe are the same elements we can find in the earth (92 elements from Hydrogen to Uranium) and the elements we are made up were used to be the parts of stars.

Te energy of a star is "nuclear fusion", fusion of atoms of hydrogen (H) into Helium (He). WIth the heat generated by nuclear fusion only helium can be created. All the elements heavier than He, have to be made in different way.  

When a star burns all hydrogen atoms, because it loses the nuclear fuson force to expand outward, the star starts to shrink due to its own gravity. This will compress the core of the star and generates higher heat than nuclear fusion. Helium will fuse to Carbon (C).

3 ⁴He → C

Then the cycle will repeat until it creats Iron (Fe), 26th elements.

But any elements heavier than iron will be created in another way. This is done by "Supernova" explosion. A star 7 times or more hivier than the Sun, which comes to the stage above will explode, which is "supernova". 

⁵⁶Fe → 13 ⁴He + 4n - 124MeV 

I am lettle smarter than before now.

So all the elements heavier than helium should be created as above, the elements we are made up with were the parts of stars, once.

I went to buy a bus ticket to the terminal in the afternoon. I bought a ticket to Oruro for 80Bs. It's Bus Cama (bed bus). So it should be very comfy ride to Oruro. The bus will leave here 9pm tomorrow,

Ana, the owner of the hostel gave me a discount rate. And she said I can use the room until I leave to the bus terminal. How kind of her!!

[3回]

Day 444: 2011年10月12日

Sucre (Hostal Pachamama)
41,131km

今日は朝からウベとMotoserviへ。昨日IMETで溶接したので今日はリア・ショックを取り付け、リア・ホイールを取り付けです。ボゴタでショックをオーバーホールしたときにメカニックが間違ってリバウンド・アジャスターを左側にセットしてしまったため、一旦ショックを取り外し、ロッドをくるっと回して取り付け直しです。

作業が終わったらあとは宿に戻ってパネルやヘッドライトなどを取り付けて修理・整備完成です。うらやましいなぁ。

ワシはバス・ターミナルに行ってバスの時間の確認、そして念のために「Motoplay」に行きタイヤの確認。PirreriのMT60 140/80 17が820ボリ（120米ドルくらい）。もしラグーナズ・ルート行くならコレを履きたいところです。

宿に戻り、スージーやエリックと歓談。今日2人はグラハムとジナと一緒にポトシに行くそうです。10日間ぐらいで戻ってくる予定ですが、また会えるかわからないので、一応お別れです。みんな行ってしまうんですね。

メルカドに昼飯を食べに行き、宿に戻りウベのKTM組み立て作業を見守りながら、マーチンに柔道の指導。
夕方まで練習。それからカナダ人ノーマンと歓談。

夕飯はウベ、フランセスカ、ノーマンとピザ屋で。ノーマンもシモニも明日出発してしまうそうです。みんな重い腰を上げ始めたので、そろそろワシも腰を上げられるかな? しかし今週末選挙があるらしく週末の移動は控えたほうがいいとか・・・。泣きっ面に蜂ですね・・・。

さて、明日にはいい知らせがチリから届きますかね。


Day 444: 12 OCT 2011

Sucre (Hostal Pachamama)
41,131km

Uwe and I went to "Motoervi" from the morning. Yesterday the welding of his frame was done at IMET, today, he needed to install his rear shock absoerber properly. WHen he rebulit his rear shock in Bogota, the mechanic fitted the rebound adjuster in wrong side. So the rear wheel was removed and the shock was removed. The bottom part of the shock turned to correct the side of the adjuster.

The shock was put back in place and the rear wheel was fitted. Now he had to go back to the hostel to bolt on those panels and head lights. Then he would be ready to take off!

I went to the bus terminal to check the time table for Oruro. Then I went to "Motoplay" to see tyres just in case. I found Pirreri MT60 140/80 17 for 820Bs (US$120). If I am going to Lagunas Route, I woud like to fit this tyre.

Back to the hostel, I chat with Suzie and Eric. They were leaving to Potosi today and will come back here in 10 days. We might not see each other again here, so we said good-bye for now.

I had lunch @ Mercado, and wacthed Uwe assembling his LTM. I also taught some Jyudo technic to Martin.

I talked with Norman from Canada till late afternoon andwith Uwe and Franceska, we went to the pizza restaurant for dinner.

What I heard was there will be a notional election on this weekend, and it is not very advisable to travel on this weekend...

Well, hopefully I will have a good news from Chile tomororw.

[3回]