Day 469: 2011年11月6日

Quilino to Alta Gracia (Sol de Polen)
43,885km to 44,078km = 193km

1週間ぶりにベッドで寝たのですが、部屋に蚊がいて足の裏、足首、手首、指などを刺されて痒い痒い・・・。寝つきは余りよく有りませんでした。

8時には出発の準備完了。オーナーに別れを告げて出発。先ずはガソリン・スタンドでクッキーと水を買って朝飯。丁度高校生の修学旅行バスか?が停まっていて、生徒たちに質問攻め。それから157号線を南下。

9号線に交わり、コルドバの北の街Jesus Mariaのガソリン・スタンド「YPF」でWiFiがあったのでそこで珈琲を飲みながらネット。ここでも色々な人から声をかけれれます。アルゼンチン人はコロンビア人みたく人なっつこいですね。そして給油。

Jesus Mariaから50キロでコルドバに入ります。高速で2ペソの交通料を払います。遠目で見ても大都市です。コルドバには用は無いのですが、せっかく来たので、セントロくらいは見ておこうと、エスペランサを進めます。

San Martin Plazaで写真と撮ろうとしたらここでも何人かに声を掛けられました。写真を撮り、一路アルタ・グラシア(Alta Gracia)へ。ここでも2ペソの高速料金。街は30キロ先です。


街は結構広いです。エルネストが暮らしていた時代は小さかったのでしょうが、今ではお洒落な街。ジャカランダが咲いていたりして、いいところですね。


インフォメーションセンターで彼の実家の場所を教えてもらい（道に看板が出ていますので聞かなくても行けました）、目の前までエスペランサで。

遂に来ました。彼の「モーターサイクル南米旅行記（Diarios de Motocicleta)」はここから始まるんですね。彼の遺体が眠るキューバのサンタ・クララ、終焉の地ボリビアのラ・イゲラを訪ねて、今度は彼が育った家です。

家は現在博物館になっていて、彼の幼少期、少年期、青年期の写真を始め、玩具、手紙、彼と友人アルベルトが南米旅行記に使用したバイク、「La Poderosa（ポデローサ号）」と同じ型のNorton 500ccが展示してあったりします。

彼の幼少期の友人や乳母さんのインタビュー映像が見られたりして、「英雄」の素顔に迫れます。彼の友人たち曰く、「彼は普通の子だった。」そうです。もちろん聡明で頑張り屋でしたが。

なんと言っても興味深いのが、彼がここで育まれた、ということ。素敵な家族、友人、隣人、そして美しい街に囲まれて彼は育ったんですねぇ。







そして、2006年にはフィデル・カストロ・キューバ国家評議議長（当時）とウーゴ・チャべス・ヴェネゼエラ大統領が一緒に訪ねてきてるんです。写真を見るとフィデル大兄、やはりお茶目です。その場に居たかったなぁ。

ここを結構訪ねる人が多いのですね。エスペランサを外に停めてあるので、何人から声を掛けられます。

昼飯は2軒となりの「Sol de Polen」にてキューバ飯を。宿も経営してるのでここに泊まることに。65ペソ。個室WiFiあり。

荷物を解いて、街へ散策。彼がいた頃と街並みはすっかり変わってしまったでしょうが、古い家を見ては、「この風景を見たのだろうか?」と考えながら歩きました。


そうそう、アルゼンチンと云えばマテ茶。嗜むのにはグアンパ(ステンレスか木製）かクイヤ（ひょうたん製）という器とボンビージャという金属製のストローが必要です。スーパーに行って買って来ました。マテ茶は「CBSe」というブランドがいいと昨日の宿のオーナーが言うのでそれを購入。この宿はキッチンが無いので試すのはキャンプしたときか、キッチンのある宿でですね。

さて、そろそろ夕飯時。飯を食べて、ゆっくりしますか。



Day 469: 06 NOV 2011

Quilino to Alta Gracia (Sol de Polen)
43,885km to 44,078km = 193km

I spent a week in my tent until last night. Finally I could sleep on a bed. But, but!! There were severalmosquitos in the room and I got bitten on my feet, wrists, fingers... So I could not have a good night sleep....

Igot ready by 8am and said good-bye to the owner of the hostel, then went to a petrol station for breakfast. I bought cookies and a bottle of water. There were a few buses carrying high-school students at the station. So while I was having breakfast, they asked me many questions.

On the route 157, I kept riding south. Then 157 met the route 9, and I arrived Jesus Maria. Here I found "WiFi" at YPF petrol station, so I had a cup of espresso and updated my blog. Here again some people asked me questions. Argentinians seem to be like Colombians, very friendly and curious. I filled up gas there.

From Jesus Maria, Cordba was 50km away. From a distance, it looked a big city and inside of the city, it was a big city. Oh, I got to pay 2 pesos at atoll booth. I did not have anything to do in this big city, but as I came I went to the main plaza to take a few photos.

I parked my GS in the front of Plaza San Martin, then a few people came to ask me questions! I am enjoying friendliness of Argentinians!!

Then I went to Alta Gracia. At the exit of Cordoba, I paid 2 pesos at a toll booth again.

Alta Gracia is located around 30km south west of Cordoba. The town is quite large. I reckoned it was much smaller town when Ernesto lived there. There were Jacaranda on the streets and in the gardens. They reminded me of Australia. It seemed to be anice town.

I asked where the house of Ernesto at Information centre. But to get there, there were many signs on the street, so I did not need ask at the information.

I parked my GS just in front of the house. Finally I came here. I visited his Mausoleum atSanta Clara, Cuba where his body is resting. I visited La HIguera, where he was killed. Then I came to the place where he grew up! His "Motorcycle diaries" started here.

Now the house is kept as a museum. the photos of his childhood, youth and family were displayed. Also the same Norton 500 motorcycle as "La Poderosa" he and his friedn Alberto used for their trip of "Motorcycle Diaries".

There was an audio room showing the interview of his childhood friends and his nany. So we could get into unknown side of him. They said he was an "ordinary" boy. Well, he was more intelligent and deligent than average kids though!

The most facinating thing was that he grew up in the house. Here with his family love, good friends, good people of this town, he built up his personality, later became a legend.

There was a room displaying photos of Fidel Castro and Hugo Chaves when they together visited there in 2006! I wish I was there at thatt time!! From the photos, Fidel look very charming.

There were lots of visitors at the house of Ernesto. As I parked my GS in the front of the house, many people talked to me.

I had lunch at "Sol de Polen", 2 houses next to the house of Ernesto. As it operates as a hostel, I decided to stay there. 65 Pesos for a single room (with shower / toilet) and with WiFi.

After checked in, I went out for a walk. The town should look completely different from the day Ernest walked there, but when I saw old houses and trees, I was thinking if he saw the same.

I went to a supermarket to buy a guard and bonbilla to have "Yerba Mate" from now on. I bought "CBse" brand yerba de mate as I heard it would be the best from the owner of the hostel at Quillino.
As this hostel does not have kithcen, I will have my first "mate" with my own mate set at a camping or a hostel with a kitchen.

Now I will go to have dinner and have a rest.

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