Day 373: 2011年8月1日

Quenuani - Peru to Copacabana - Bolivia (Hostal Florencia)
Peru: 38,730km to 38,739km = 9km
Bolivia: 38,739km to 38,748km = 9km, Total 18km

今日は6時に目が覚めましたが寒いのでしばらく寝袋の中でウダウダ。6時半には起床。7時前に皆で朝飯を食べて（警官は朝が早い）、パウルが「今日は10時くらいに出れるよ」と。頼もしい。
9時過ぎまでやる事が無いのでバイクのダメージの再確認をしたり、荷物をまとめたり、カルロスと喋ったり。

9時過ぎにビデオカメラを回しながら調書を取り、書類にサインと指印を。一字一句確認しながら書類は作成されましたし、ちゃんとワシが警察署で正当に扱われたかも記録されました。徹底してますね。持ち物もすべてカメラを回しながら反してくれました。

しかし車両保険だけは老人に譲渡することに彼がまったく保険に加入してませんし彼の過失なのでどうしようも出来ないので（老人の家族はお金が無いと）。普通なら交通事故なので彼の過失でもワシの保険でカバーできると思うのですが?? 一体どうやったらワシ名義の保険が利くのでしょう??　まぁ、警察がそう言っているので、譲渡しました。ここら辺はスペイン語能力の限界で理解できませんでした。書類にもきちんとその旨が書かれてました。が、ワシはそのコピーをもらわなかったんですね。

全ての書類にサインと指印をして、10時過ぎには開放されました。まぁ、GSのダメージは修理と部品交換すれば直りますし、老人は明日退院できるとのことなので一件落着。パウルとカルロスと写真を撮って、出発です。国境の街Yungayoまでは直ぐです。

先ずはペルミソをキャンセルするためにアドゥアナへ、と思いキョロキョロしてたら係員が手招きを。「アドゥアナか？」と訊いたら、「そうだ」と。

そこで警官登場!! 「アドゥアナ」の前に警察署へ。警察署に行くと「書類を提示」と。
「保険証はかくかくしかじかで手元に無い」と言うと、「それは問題だ。300ソル（ドル?）の罰金か逮捕だ」と。 ケヌナニの警察署で一筆書いてもらわなかったのが悔やまれます。

「分かった、それじゃぁ、の警察署に電話して訊いてみてよ」というと、「管轄外だから電話番号分からん」と。
「それじゃぁ、の警察署まで行こう」と言うと、「今忙しいからここを離れられない」と。 それでも別の警察署に行こうと粘ってると、「いくら払うんだ?」と賄賂をせびって来ました

何も悪いことしてないし、保険は加入しているのだから、と粘ると、「じゃぁ、行っていいよ。」と開放されました。一件落着。

それからアドゥアナでペルミソをキャンセルし、イミグレで出国スタンプを。その前にツーリストカードに警察のスタンプが必要でした（イミグレの隣の警察署）。

両替所でソルからボリビアーノの換金。公定では1ソルは2.56ボリなのですが、2.44ボリと。まぁ、イイか。ということで472.5ソルを交換。1152.9ボリになりました。手持ちにはＴＫさんから貰った82.5ボリもありますので1,235.4ボリあることになりますね。

ボリビア側では先ずはイミグレへ。ツーリストカードを記入し係員に入国スタンプを押してもらいます。30日滞在と書かれたので、「90日もらえないの?｣と訊いたら、すこし考えた後、30日スタンプを3回押して90日ということになりました。大丈夫か??

それからアドゥアナへ。「90日の輸入許可をください」と言ったらちゃんと90日くれました。パスポートと登録証のコピーが必要です（コピー屋近くに有り）。

国境からコパカバーナの街までは8キロ。チチカカ湖を眺めながら走ります。宿はOrdinary Daysに紹介されている(アダムがくれたＧＰＳポイントにも有りました）Hostal Florecia。
中庭に駐車可能です。個室1泊15ボリ（2米ドルちょっと）。しかし明日はピークなので20ボリ（3米ドル）と。まぁ、太陽の島(Isla del Sol)に行きたいので2泊ですね。

荷物を置き昼飯を食べに。トルーチャ（マス）が20ボリ。ペルー人の家族連れがいましたが、ソルで払おうとして店の人困ってます。 ここは国境の街と言ってもボリビアだよ、ペルー人。やっぱり、ペルー人は駄目だな。

それからセロ・カルバリオ(Cerro Calvario)を登りました。ここからは絶景が!と聞いていましたが、カトリックの聖地になってるみたいで参拝者が多くてちょっとうんざり。
ペルー人も休暇中なのでいっぱいいます。そうそう、ボリビアの独立記念日は8月6日なので、休暇を取っている人が多いですね 絶景は?　うーん、曇っていて良くないなぁ。夕日がキレイらしいのでまた登りますかね。

宿に戻りシャワーを浴びて見晴らしのいいテラスで日記をつけます。それから部屋に戻り繕い物を。短パンのポケットの部分が破けているので穴をふさがないと財布を落とします。
気が付いたらもう6時前。急いでセロ・カバリオまで。夕暮れに間に合うかな?






登り始めたのが6時5分で頂上に着いたのが6時23分。18分で登れたのは大したものですね。で、夕日はというと…。まぁ、大したことないですね。今まで素晴らしい夕日を見て来たせいか、感度が…。完璧に風景不感症ですかね。

山を降りて安食堂のSanta Marthaで夕飯。他の客が食べているのが7ボリで美味しそうだったのでそれを注文。ハンバーグが2つにチュノ（黒いジャガイモ）が付いてなかなか美味い!!　
なんて料理だか聞きましたが名前を覚えられず…。

宿に戻ると女将が通訳してくれと。日本人のガンちゃんがスペイン語あんまり出来ないので説明をすることに。
彼女は明日太陽の島（isla del Sol)に行ってそのままラパスに行くつもりなのですが、女将はそうなると夜の9時10時に着くから危険だからもう一泊しなさいと。
ガンちゃんは「え、明日いっぱいで泊まれないんじゃないの?」と。女将は「明日は混むけど問題ないよ」と。なのでガンちゃん連泊決定。太陽の島もワシと同じ8時半－15時半の船でめぐることになりました。

しばらく彼女と歓談後明日に備えて寝ることにしました。まだ、風邪が抜けきってません。


Day 373: 01 AUG 2011

Quenuani - Peru to Copacabana - Bolivia (Hostal Florencia)
Peru: 38,730km to 38,739km = 9km
Bolivia: 38,739km to 38,748km = 9km, Total 18km

It was pretty cold last night. But a night at the police station was just as a usual night.
I got up around 6:30am. All of the policemen were already awake!

We had breakfast before 7am. Paul told me that I could leave there around 10am today. It would be nice! Until 9am, I got nothing to do, so I was re-checking the damages on my GS and packing up.

After 9am, with a video camera on, Paul and Carlos started make official documents by interviewing me. The document ware made very carefully, word by word Paul was checking if they were correct.
The questions included if I was treated farely at the police station.
After everything was checked, I signed on the documents and pressed the finger print on them.

All my belongings (passports, driver's license, the vehicle title and Permiso) were returned with the video camera on. Everything was so detailed and made clearly.

But SOAT Insurance was not returned to me. The reason was because the old man did not have any insurance with him nor he had money, so Paul asked me to give my insurance to him.
I wasn't sure why my insurance would not cover his hospital fee even though the accident was at his fault. And I wasn't sure how the insurance undermy name can be transfered to the old man.
Paul explained to me but it was a little to complicated to understand in Spanish.It was also mentioned in the document that I was voluntarily giving my SOAT insurance to the old man.

All documents were signed and figer printed, then I was released just after 10am.
The damages on my GS can be fixed or parts can be changed. The most important thing was the old man was fine and he was due to release from the hospital tomorrow.

Paul and arlos wanted totake photos with my and my GS, so we did that. I said good-bye to all policemen and took off to the border.

At the border town Yungayo, I needed to cancel Permiso first. In front of Aduana, there was a policeman and asked to me to come to the police station first. He asked to me to show the documents. And he said "Where is your Insurace?". I told him what happened at Quenuani.

But he said "If you don't have Insurance paper wih you, you need to pay US$300 (0r 300 Soles) fine or jailed." So I asked him to call the police station @ Quenuani, but he said he didnot know the phone number. I suggested to go to the police staion together, but he said he was busy.
He started ask me to pay him bribe, but I rejected. I insisted to go to the police staion @ Quenuani. Then finally he gave up and released me. I really dislike Peruvians...

The cancellation of Permiso was easy. Then I went to Immigration to stamp out the country.

I went to Money Exchange to get Bolivianos. The rate was 1 Sol equal to 2.44 Bolivianos (the officeal rate was 1 Sole = 2.56 Bolivianos). I had 472.5 Soles with me, so it became 1152.9Bs. My friend TK gave me 82.5Bs in Arequipa, so totally I had 1,235Bs in my hands.

Then I crossed the border to Bolivia. In Bolivian side, I went to Immigration first. I filled out the tourist card and got a stamp on my passport. The officer gave me just 30 days only, so I asked him to give me 90 days. He was thinking a bit, then stamped "30 days" stamp 3 times to make it 90days!

After that, I went to Aduana to get Permiso. It was very easy process. I got 90days permission. Oh, a copy of passport and the vehicle title required there. A copier was located nearby anyway.

From the border to Copacabana, it was just 8km. I was riding the road seeing Lake Titicaca.
I stayed at Hostal Florecia. Here I could park my GS in the courtyard and the rate was only 15Bs for a private room (shared bathroom). As I wanted to visit Isla del Sol, so I would stay here for 2 days.

I went out for lunch. Trucha (Trout) cost 20Bs. There was Peruvian family @ the restaurant and they were paying in Soles. The owner of the restaurant was little confused as he did not have enough change. They should have paid in Bolivianos as here was Bolivia. There were lots of Money Exchange around too. Peruvians were reallly arrogant....

Then I went to climb up Cerro Calvario. It supposed to have a great view of Lake Titicaca from the top of the hill. It was quite a climb. The hill itself was the Catholic pilgrimiage place, so there was a ton of Peruvians and Bolivians. The view wasn't that great. But the sunset from here supposed to be good, so I thought I should come back in the dusk.

I went back to the hostel and took a shower and then went up to the"Mirador" - top floor of the hostel witha great view of Lake Titicaca to write diaries. Then I went back to my room to do some sewing. My shorts had a big haole in a pocket where I susually put my walet. So I needed to sew it before I lose my walet!

Then it was just befoe 6pm! Could I make to the top of the hill before the sunset??
I hurried to the hill and begining to climb up at 6:05pm. I was on the top at 6:23pm, so it took me only 18mins to the top. Not bad.

The sunset was, OK. I had seen better sunset elsewere. But it was worth climbing up.

I had dinner at "Comedor Popular Santa Martha". I ordered the same one as locals having. It was meatballs with rice and potatos. 7Bs and was really good.

Back to the hostel there was another Japanese traveller. Her name was Gan-chan. SHe was to visit Isla del Sol tomorrow, so we decided to explore the island togeher.

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